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FFL Disclaimer

How to Purchase Firearms

FFL Disclaimer:
An FFL dealer is a business or individual with a Federal Firearms License. These licensees are usually gun shops, gunsmiths, and manufacturers, but can also be individuals. FFL dealers have been approved by the ATF to do background checks and take all the other necessary steps to transfer guns to individuals legally. Any firearm being shipped to an individual must be shipped to a local FFL dealer so that its transfer can be processed in accordance with all local, state and federal regulations.

Federal law requires all modern firearms must be shipped to an FFL holder, which is usually any type of business that sells firearms. We are required by the ATF to have a physical copy of an FFL holders license before we can ship your item to them. If you have never dealt with an FFL Dealer, you will want to contact a local FFL first to ensure they are willing to perform transfers and find out their transfer fee and schedule.

Upon receipt of the FFL from your dealer, your package will be ready to ship.
You will automatically receive a copy of the UPS or USPS Tracking Number.
It is your responsibility to coordinate with the FFL dealer to pickup your item. Most dealers charge a transfer fee and handle any background check or related fees.

When you pick up your item, inspect it to ensure the condition is acceptable before completing the transfer. Once the firearm is transferred, you will have to consult with the manufacturer if there are any defects or warranty matters.
Please make sure you are legally permitted to purchase and own a Firearm.

All sales of firearms must go through a federally licensed dealer or gun shop. If you do not hold a Federal Firearms License, you must have your local dealer contact us with their information in order to complete the sale.
Please check your local, state, and federal laws and regulations before placing an order using this link:



  • Q: What does the name IDOD mean?
    • A: The name IDOD means to cut the inside and the outside of the neck simultaneously.

  • Q: Is the IDOD right for you?
    • A: The IDOD is designed for customers looking to get full clean up on their brass. This requires the neck and body run out to be less than the amount you are taking off. For example, customers looking to "skim cut" their brass by taking cases that originally measure .011" before turning and only turn them to .0105" will not get sufficient clean up, meaning this only leaves .00025" to take off both the OD and the ID. Most cases have too much case neck to body run out to sufficiently clean up this thin of a cut. This machine will work for customers who are turning high quality brass such as Lapua, Norma, Peterson, Alpha, etc. with minimal amounts of run out in the neck to body of the case. Your neck to body run out when checked on a concentricity gauge needs to be less than the amount you are cutting. (Ex. If your brass is checked on a concentricity gauge and your neck to body run out is .004” and you are only cutting off .002”, your brass necks will not have 100% clean up.) If you have .002" neck to body run out in your brass when checking it on a concentricity gauge, you would need to cut minimum .002" off to get 100% clean up. For example, We find that when the 6.5 x .284 Lapua brass is expanded to 7mm and full length sized with a bushing less die to keep the neck to body concentric, it is approximately .014" - .0145" neck wall thickness before turning. When turning to .0125" or thinner we always get sufficient clean up. (Ex. Staring with .0145" and needing .0125")
  • Q: What is the minimum amount of material needed to be removed from my case necks to get sufficient clean up?
    • A: It all depends on how much run out between the case neck and the body, meaning if you have .002" case neck to body run out you would need to cut minimum .002" off to get 100% clean up. For example, We find that when the 6.5x.284 Lapua brass is expanded and full length sized it is approximately .014" - .0145" neck wall thickness before turning, when turning to .0125 or thinner we always get sufficient clean up.
  • Q: What is the difference in a case holder for new brass and fired brass?
    • A: How the brass is held in place by the case holder is by the taper of the case. A case holder for new brass is going to be based on the manufacturer's taper of the brass. All manufacturer's are similar but may vary some and can require separate case holders for different brands of brass. Fired brass changes the manufactured taper and forms to the inside of your chamber, this meaning that case holders must be made for your specific chamber and brass is required to be sent in for proper fitment. 
  • Q: What if I would like to start turning my brass but have a no-turn neck chamber?
    • A: Yes, you can still turn your brass while using a no-turn neck chamber. We do this personally with success and we know many others who do it also. The only down fall is that you can potentially over work your brass's necks over multiple firings and possibly cause cracking. If you are annealing your brass you shouldn't have this issue. We have never seen or had this issue with our turned brass.
  • Q: I am looking to purchase a barrel chambered for turned brass, how much neck clearance do I need with a loaded round in my chamber?
    • A: We recommend .003" loaded round chamber neck clearance minimum, and for larger calibers from 7mm and up we recommend .004" - .006" loaded round chamber neck clearance minimum.
  • Q: Can un-fire formed brass be neck turned?

  • Common Cartridge Shoulder Angles
We recommend purchasing the same shoulder angle cutter as the cartridges are labeled under below. The shoulder angle cutters have 5 degree's more than the amount listed on the cutter to thin the shoulder neck junction and prevent donuts from forming.
    • 20 Degree
      • 220 Swift
      • 243
      • .308 Winchester
      • 260 Remington
      • 25-06
      • 30-06
      • 270 Winchester
      • 280 Winchester
      • 300 Norma Magnum
      • 338 Lapua Magnum
      • 50 BMG
    • 25 Degree
      • 222 Remington
      • 223 Remington
      • 22-250
      • 300 Winchester Magnum
      • 7mm Remington Magnum
      • 338 Norma Magnum
      • 6.5x55 Swede
      • 375 Cheytac
      • 416 Barrett

    • 30 Degree
      • 224 Valkyrie
      • 7mm Ultra Magnum
      • 300 Ultra Magnum
      • 300PRC
      • 6.5x47 Lapua
      • 6.5 Grendel
      • 22 Nosler
      • 6XC
      • 6mm Creedmoor
      • 6.5mm Creedmoor
      • 6BR
      • 6BRX
      • 6PPC
      • 460 Steyr
      • 300 RSAUM
      • 7mm RSAUM
    • 35 Degree
      • WSM
      • ‚Äč284 Winchester
      • 284 Shehane
    • 40 Degree
      • 6MM Dasher
      • 6BRA
      • 7 FCP
Other Questions and Answers
  • Q: What does the lowering kit of the PHOENIX BIPOD help with?
    • A: There are two distinct advantages on the lowering kit.  The first is weight, the lowering kit by itself with no other mods reduces the weight of the bipod by 4 oz on the second gen, and almost 8 oz on the first gen.  Second is the lower center of gravity to help reduce torque on the rifle induced by the fired bullet.
  • Q: Do I need Aluminum or Stainless F-Class Feet?
    • A: Stainless is more durable when putting the feet in the ground hundreds of times, but the stainless is also heavier.  The aluminum is lighter and mainly used on the SEB MINI so to keep the rest from getting "too heavy".  The aluminum will wear out its tips sooner, but I have hundreds of times setting up on firing lines, and the aluminum feet are still held up fine.
  • Q: What are the advantages of the MINI ANKLES?
    • A: The ankles allow you to keep your feet perpendicular to the ground no matter the angle of the legs.  The mini legs have 20 degrees of adjustment, the ankles have 25 degrees of adjustment, so they can accommodate any combination of angles and firing lines.
  • Q: Do you plan on adding additional products to your website?
Check out our Youtube Channel for more videos on how to use our products!
Mini Bundle Kit Assembly
Phoenix Bipod Lowering Kit Assembly